The Fat Badger, London W10: 'A set menu, yes, but a hearty, meat and two veg-type set menu' - restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

If the Fat Badger has gained an early reputation as something of a party palace for the Notting Hill set, that sells the cooking here very short Off to Notting Hill to the secret, exclusive dining room, pub and hidden speakeasy that is the Fat Badger. When it opened earlier this year, the place was invite-only, but has since relaxed its door policy to allow anyone who fancies the first-floor bar for ale, martinis and toasties or the set menu by a former River Cafe chef on the top floor. Nothing ...